Tarutao National Park
General Information
The history of Tarutao is tied to the history of democracy in Thailand. The need for an
isolated and forbidding environment to lock away enemies of the state caused the Corrections Department to build a penal colony there in 1939. Two important revolutionary groups were imprisoned here: the Bowondet coup group and the Petty Officers' coup group. Their coup attempts were unsuccessful, but ushered in change nonetheless, and soon a democratic constitution was drafted. The first prison was located at Talo Udang Bay, but hundreds of new prisoners came every month, so Talo Wao Bay became the second site. Prisoners were forced to build a road 12 km. long and 6 m. wide between the two bays. From interviews of old guards and prisoners, it was learned that almost 1/3 of the convicts died on the island. Malaria was the main cause of death; but cruelty from guards and starvation were also other major factors. Escape was a disheartening prospect, due to crocodiles, sharks and fierce guards. But not all prisoners were miserable. The political prisoners were naturally respected due to their social status, rank and education; and enjoyed an "open prison" atmosphere away from the common prisoners. They whiled away their time in useful projects, including agriculture, plant propagation and translation and dictionary-writing. After their return to the real world, many returned to high government posts. Order eroded in the camps during WW II. Supplies no longer came from the mainland, and starvation ensued. Both guards and prisoners soon became the most feared pirates in the area, preying on merchant ships in the Strait of Malacca. This quote describing earlier piracy sums up the boat owners' terror: "Not only on land, but perhaps more so at sea, the Western traveler feared for his safety ..... countless white travelers recorded their fears of, and warnings about the savage marauders of the archipelago who thrived on massacre, violation and rapine. In many eyes, the rich and beautiful islands seemed to have become mutated into some nightmarish landscape -- the indented coasts, estuaries, creeks, rivers and narrow channels affording concealment for the pirates' murderous pillage, with 'no vessel ..... safe, no flag ..... respected.' (Raffle)" [from Western Impressions of Nature and Lanscape in Southeast Asia, Victor R. Savage, Singapore University Press, Natl. Unibersity of Singapore] After WW II ended, British naval troops were sent to Tarutao to clean out the pirate groups. After the Corrections Deparment closed the prison on Tarutao, villagers from nearby provinces began to settle on Tarutao, in the valleys and inland of the bays. There were fishermen and farmers who planted rice, fruit trees, rubber trees, coconuts and jackfruit. In 1972, the government decided to make Tarutao a national park and surveyors were sent to the island. In 1974, Tarutao and Adang-Rawi islands were declared a national park; Thailand's second marine national park. The making of a national park: Insight into early park conditions is available from Tarutao's first director, Mr. Boonruang Saison. Mr. Boonruang is well-known throughout Thai and foreign conservation circles for his sacrifices in struggling to establish national parks. He studied at Prae Forestry College, Kasetsart University and the SUNY School of Forestry and Environmental Science. In his field career he carved out no less than four national parks: Thung Salang Luang, Khao Yai, Doi Inthanon and Tarutao. When he first came to Tarutao in 1973 to establish the park, there were 1,000 villagers living primarily at Jak Bay, Talo Udang Bay and Talo Wao Bay. The settled residents were not pleased at the new land status and relations were very bad between the villagers and the park workers. One or two workers were killed in ambush, and there was much other conflict. Finally the villagers realized that they could not continue fighting, so most moved away. At last only 17 families remained. The Royal Forest Department started a restitution program -- the richest villager, Mr. Ju, received the most compensation money; 25,000 ฿ for his Molae Bay coconut plantation. Mr. Boonruang explains that sea gypsies are the oldest residents of the park, living in harmony with the sea long before prison days. Originally they were true' gypsies,' migrating from beach to beach and living in temporary houses. Their traditonal fishing methods caused no detrimental impacts on their environment. Only later when mainland people moved out to the islands to buy land and finance more intensive business activities did sea gypsies become culprits in illegal trawling, dynamite fishing, piracy, log and wildlife poaching. The relation between park workers and the outer islanders were bad, many workers died in shoot-outs. But Mr. Boonruang stresses that the sea gypsies themselves were not responsible; most were not involved in the conflicts. At first the park had only one small boat to patrol the wide park waters, and even later could not match the boat power and weapons of illegal fishermen. During one famous incident in 1981, 10 park workers in a long-tailed boat were surrounded by illegal trawlers and dynamite-fishing boats. As their boat became riddled with bullet holes, they broke away and returned to Laem Sone at Ko Adang. When the illegal boats followed them and surrounded the area, they were forced to radio for help. Finally a helicopter carried them out of the predicament. Other obstacles for the pioneering rangers were bad weather and storms, capsizing boats, malaria and loneliness. Sometimes the men stayed by themselves in distant guard stations for long periods of time. Boonruang says he always tried to provide proper health care and security programs for his workers to make up for the dangerous conditions. He knew he could never expect his men to risk their lives if their own boss wasn't brave, so Boonruang is known for his daring exploits as well. During one very stormy monsoon period, the park was almost out of provisions, so he took the boat out to Pakbara himself to buy rice and food, on the verge of capsizing all the way. The intense training in weapon use, swimming and park protection was successful in his era. One heroic worker with one small boat and a gun one night managed to arrest 7 trawling boats and bring them into headquarters. The wild days of Tarutao are almost over, but somehow a whiff of danger and intrigue still is in the air.
Topography
The 51 islands of the park archipelago lie in the Andaman Sea from 20-70 km.. off the extreme southwest coast of peninsular Thailand. Tarutao, the largest of the islands, is 26.5 km. long and 11 km. wide. The topography is mostly mountainous (highest point 708 m.) with a few broad plains and valleys. Semi-evergreen rain-forest blankets about 60 percent of the island, and pure mangrove swamps are found in several areas. Long sandy beaches lie along the western coast from Pante Bay to Makham Bay, and at Talo Udang Bay in the south.
Tarutao is a Malay work meaning old, mysterious and primitive. Preliminary geological work has borne out the first of these adjectives. Much of Tarutao is composed of very old Cambrian sandstone. The northern and southeastern portions of the island consist of limestone rock. Most of the caves on the island are formed in limestone rock.
The Adang-Rawi group of islands lies about 50 km.. west of Tarutao and includes Adang, Rawi, Dong and Lipe. Adang Island. with a steep and rugged landscape almost completely covered by tropical rainforest, may be the most wild and appealing of the islands. Sparkling clear water and superb coral reefs provide habitat for a wide variety of marine life forms, including many brightly colored fish. Beautiful beaches consist of quartz derived from Adang's Cretaceous granite makeup and coral fragmants. Several waterfalls plummet down Adang's eastern slopes in times of heavy rain.
Climate
Tarutao and the west coast of peninsular Thailand are subject to a monsoon climate. In the summer months high temperatures in central China cause the air to rise, thus creating a massive low pressure area. This draws wind from the cooler area over the Indian Ocean. The winds coming off the Indian Ocean pick up moisture and dump heavy rains on the west coast of peninsular Thailand from May through October. Normally 250-400 mm. of rain falls in each of these months. The other six months of the year receive little or no rain. Total yearly rainfall averages about 2500 mm. The monsoon winds make boat travel dangerous from May through October; that is why visitors are encouraged to come to the park from November through April.
The mean yearly temperature is between 27 and 28 degrees C. The warmest month of the year is April, with the April mean about 29 degrees C. High temperatures in April may be 35 degrees C. or more. November and December are the coolest months of the year with mean temperatures of about 15 degrees C.
The mean yearly humidity is about 80%. It is highest in September, October and November and averages about 85%. Humidity is lowest in February and March, varying from 70-72%. The climatic data recorded here was not taken on Tarutao. It is based on data actually collected at Phuket and Trang, and is thus not completely accurate. But it is unlikely that the actual values for Tarutao would be much different.
Flora and Fauna
For more extensive details on Tarutao National Park's natural resources, see the following publications in the library, but please do not remove them from the library.
Vegetation: The bioclimate of Tarutao is influenced by its position just north of the "Kangar-Pattani line" which approximates the transition from rain to monsoon forest. The change is due to decreasing rainfall and increasing seasonality in the climate northwards. Further complications of geology and azonal soil types create a mosaic of both Thai and Malayan forest species in the park. The dominant vegetation type in the park is moist evergreen forest. Other types are dry evergreen forest, mixed deciduous forest, mangrove forest, secondary forest and old agricultural land, beach forest, coconut plantation and scrub forest.
Wildlife: As is typical of island fauna, Tarutao National Park contains relatively few terrestrial vertebrates and resident birds, though visitors are still able to see wildlife. Dusky langurs, crab-eating macaques, mouse deer and wild pig are common on the islands. Due to prolonged isolation by sea, over 13 insular subspecies occur on the islands. There are at least nine insular subspecies of squirrels, five of common treeshrew and three of lesser mouse deer. Other wildlife occurring in the park are slow loris, otters, civets, flying lemurs, fishing cats, soft-shelled turtles, monitor lizards, pythons, cobras, coral snakes and vipers. Crocodiles may inhabit the saltwater swamps of Tarutao, but no sightings have been reported for several years. The feral cattle will soon be removed from Tarutao, and the rule against other domesticated animals is strictly enforced.
It is likely that over 100 bird species occur here, either as residents or migrants. The reef egret, which has both a light and dark color phase, is a commonly seen bird of both rocky and sandy coasts. Majestic white-bellied sea eagles and ospreys have been seen soaring over the park in their search for fish. There are three species of hornbills as well as more rarely encountered species such as frigate birds, dusky grey herons, pied imperial pigeons and masked finfoot. Just off the southwest tip of Tarutao is Ko Rang Nok (Birds' Nest Island) where a limestone cavern harbors a large colony of edible nest swiftlets; a shrine at the entrance was once used to make offerings of cattle skulls to placate the cave spirits and protect nest gatherers who scaled long bamboo poles to the cave's roof, a practice now prohibited
Marine Life: The area of Adang-Rawi contains many coral reefs of high species diversity. Degradation of some reefs by natural and man-made causes is significant but has not affected the overall ecological value of the park. The map insert shows some of the more interesting coral reefs in the park. The damage to some reefs are due to dynamite fishing, storm damage and crown-of-thorns starfish predation.
It is estimated that the park contains about 25% of the world's fish species. Some of the more important include members of families such as shark, ray, grouper, eel, carp, catfish, salmon, flying perch, angelfish and butterflyfish. 92 species of coral-reef fish were identified in one study.
Among marine mammals which can be spotted in the park are dugong, the common dolphin, the Irawadddy dolphin, sperm whale and minke whale.
Three species of migratory sea turtles nest on several of the island's beaches from September to April. Tragically, the present number of turtle nests may be less than a tenth of those found in 1974, a decline likely due to over-collection of eggs as well as mortality from fishing trawlers which often net adult turtles. Two American scientists studied the turtles during 1980-81, but their program of research and protection has largely been abandoned because of lack of manpower and funds.
Ao Talo Udang (Talo Udang Bay)
Talo Udang Bay A lonely, historic outpost that looks out upon Langkawi Island. Once the site of a unique penal colony for political prisoners; later a bustling village complete with shops, fishing port, monks and a brothel; little trace of these civilized establishments can be found today. A few remnants of prison days are still visible--a cement foundation for a fish sauce plant, rubber tree grove, and charcoal furnace pit. These are a bit of a walk from the Talo Udang ranger station, but if you manage to make it here, maybe one of the rangers will show you around. The young men who are stationed here become quite cut off from the world, and tend to yell around, sing and tell ghost stories among themselves.
Talo Udang Bay, Located in the south of Tarutao Island. It’s 8 km. far from Langkawee Island, Malaysia and 23 km. far from headquarters. This is the place where Ranger Station 2 was located.
Ao Talo Wao (Talo Wao Bay)
Talo Wao Bay, Site of prison for common criminals, in 2480 - 2490 BD, It used to be the place where prisoners was caged and trained to work. Now it remains only a dune, ruined buildings and the funeral for 700 prisoner.
The coast is rocky here with limestone rocks jutting from the sea. When first reaching the eastern coast by road, you will see the old ranger station, which is still used by the Talo Wao staff. The road continues another kilometer to the ranger station on the hill, overlooking the long pier next to a rock outcropping. In the monsoon season, fishing boats congregate in this sheltered bay.
Path from Talo Wao to Talo Udang: This trail actually follows the old prisoner's road, which once allowed a Landrover to make trips between the two sites. In some places, remains of bridges and stonework can be seen. Currently the trail is very overgrown, a guide might be necessary to at least find the trailhead. Approximately 12 km., 4-5 hour walk.
Road from Pante bay to Talo Wao Bay: This road is flat and passes through old agricultural land, rubber trees and orchards for the most part; but the last 4 km. climb through evergreen forest and tall trees. Distance: 12.5 km.. Walking time: 3 hours. Off-trail option: Near the 7 km.. marker on the road to Talo Wao Bay, the black water pipe dives into the forest. If you follow this pipe up the streambed, you'll come to one of the sources for Pante Bay's water. A short walk, but a chance to explore the forest.
Talo Wao Bay, Located in the east of Tarutao Island. It’s 12 km. far from headquarters and the place where Ranger Station 1 (Talo Wao) was located.
Ko Adang (Adang Island)
In the past, it’s the home of pirates who robbed the ships. The beach is beautiful with white sand. There’re coral reef surrounded that’s good place for scuba diving. Ranger Station 5 (Laem Son) is located 40 km. far from headquarters.
Pha Chado Viewpoint (Chado Cliff Viewpoint)
Located in Adang Island. In the past, it’s the place where pirates made an observation for other ships, goods ship. Now it’s good place for seeing the beautiful sight of the sea. You’ll see pine forests and white sand beach of Adang Island. You also see Ko Lepe from here. It takes you 30 minutes.
Ao Phante Malaka
It’s where Tarutao National Park 's headquars located. White sand beach is good for taking a walk, swimming ,picnic and camping.
Pha Toe-Boo Viewpoint (Cliff trail)
A popular sunset photo-op, good view of distant islands, rippling sea, thick forested hills and soaring birds of prey. The trail to this 114 meter cliff begins directly being the library & office; between garage and official guest houses. The route passes limestone, mixed deciduous forest and scrub forest. Time: 15-20 minutes. Take the shortcut straight down the cliff with breathtaking ladders; trail to shortcut begins beneath the platform viewpoint.
Charakae Cave (Crocodile Cave)
Mouth of cave lies at the end of one of the Pante Malacca Canal's many mangrove-lined channels. The cave is filled with brackish water and extends several kilometers. Only once has the cave been followed to its end opening near Jak Bay; by 3 rangers in a rubber raft, in the days when crocodiles were still a resident of the salt-water swamp. The boat trip is scenic, with close-ups of the mangrove ecosystem, various birds, and lucky visitors will catch a glimpse of a spectacled langur pausing still in a tree. To arrange a boat trip, contact the information booth. Try to share the cost with other visitors. At present, a walkway extends only a short way into the cave. Bring flashlights and/or candles.
Ao Jak (Jak Bay)
It’s a small bay connected to PhanTe Malaka Bay. It’s white sand beach which’s good for taking a walk and picnic.
Ao Molae (Molae Bay)
A small cove just south of Jak Bay; with a coconut plantation, uncompleted park buildings and a villger's bamboo house. The path/road that leads here passes through a tiny mangrove swamp area at the very south end of Jak Bay. At high tide, you will have to wade through the water approximately 50 meters. If continuing to Son Bay, be aware that the road disappears in the sand. To be sure of finding it again, keep to the left of the villager's house and walk straight.
Just after Molae Bay, the road to Son Bay begins to climb past wild banana trees and tall dipterocarps. Near Son Bay, the road crosses two small streams, then ends at the coast. To the left is the long part of the beach, to the right is a smaller beach and the guard station buildings and rangers' quarters. Cross to the buildings via the fun rope bridge, or just wade. Total distance from Pante Malaka Bay to Son Bay, 8 km.; walking time, 2 hours.
Ao Son (Son Bay)
2.5 hours, 8 km. from headquarters, along the beach to Jak Bay at low tide or at high tide, via the road. The trail takes you through a coconut plantation at Molae Bay, and onwards through the forest, to Son Bay. At Son Bay, look out for Pythons resting on a branch overhanging the river, rest on the white sand beach, or walk to Lu Du (1.5 hours) or Lo Po (2.5 hours) Waterfalls, for a freshwater dip. You can camp at Son Bay.
Son Bay has a very long beach, nearly 3 km., with a view of mountains and sunsets. It is an important area for sea turtle nesting, November to March.
Lu Du Waterfall
Lu Du River provides the water for the Ranger base at the north end of the beach, whilst Lo Po meanders through dense mangrove forests to the south. Follow either river upstream and you will find cool, refreshing pools and pretty waterfalls. Look out for coloured arrow trail markers, and stone cairns for stream crossings.
The trail to Lu Du Waterfall starts 500 m from the Ranger Base, along the path leading back towards Ao Pante. Look for the signpost on your right. From here it is 1 1/2 hours walk to the waterfall.
Lo Po Waterfall
Lo Po Waterfall trail starts about 1 1/2 kilometres south down the beach. It was originally made in April 1990 by Peace Corps volunteers, under the supervision of the then Head Ranger of Son Bay, the longest serving Ranger of Tarutao, Mr. Niwon. The trail passes through Beach Forest and Evergreen Rainforest. Look for the coloured arrow trail markers and stone cairns for stream crossings. The waterfall is more spectacular in the rainy season, but the pool is enough to bathe in and the trail is fun to walk. Absorb the atmosphere of silent rock faces and thick lianas draping to the ground. Distance from Ranger Base: 6 km. Time: 2 1/2 hours.
Ao Makham (Makham Bay)
It's the place where Ranger Station 3 (Ao Makham) is located here, at the bottom of the freshwater stream. In the non-monsoon season, subsistence fishermen (mostly Muslim) keep temporary shelters here. As of yet, no trail exists between Sone Bay and Makham Bay.
Ko Klang and Ko Khai (Klang and Khai Island)
These small islands are about halfway between Tarutao and Adang-Rawi Islands. Ko Klang was a former ranger station, but fresh water and snakes were a problem. Ko Khai is the small idyllic island with the famous stone arch, blinding white sand and clear aqua sea. The word "Khai" means egg in Thai, indicating a large sea turtle nesting site in the past. There is some damaged coral around Ko Khai, and colorful fish, but spiky sea urchins seem to dominate.
Ko Hin Ngam (Hin Ngam Island)
It’s a small island with round black rocks beach. The rocks will reflect beautiful light when the sun shines. Each of the rocks here was cursed by Tarutao’s god who will punish everyone who steals the rock from the island.
Ko Yang (Yang Island)
Yang Island located near Ko Hin Ngam to the north. It’s surrounded by coral reefs such as staghorn coral, leaf coral, It’s a good place for snorkelling diving. The beach is beautiful with a crystal clear blue sea. There are plenty of beautiful fish live around the coral reef.
Ko Chabang (Chabang Island)
Chabang Island located between Ko Adang and Rawie Island. It’s surrounded by pink soft coral, lavender soft coral, red soft coral with the arrange shade of colors. There’re phylum porifera, sea whip, sea anemone, feather star and beautiful fish which live in the coral reef. It’s the good place for both snorkelling and scuba diving.
Ko Rawi (Rawi Island)
Rawi Island is a place where there’s white sand beach. It’s quiet place suits for pitching tents. It’s the place where Ranger Station 6 (Hat Sai Khao) and Ranger Station 7 (Talo Palean) is located.
Ko Lipe (Lipe Island)
There is a village with a school and shops, and private tourist bungalows are available for rent. National Park staffs are unable to book these in advance. The advantage of staying at Lipe Island is a amazingly diverse coral reef within swimming distance; at Gra Island, the tiny isle with the lone conconut tree. One can also observe the sea gypsy village life. There are more restaurant options and stores here than at Adang Island. Lipe Island is a small flat island dominated by coconut plantations. Pattaya Bay on the other side of the island offers an isolated swimming and sunbathing area. But beware of sunbathing alone when there are fishing boats moored nearby; incidents have been reported in the past.
Both the park and Lipe villagers offer a boat service between Adang and Lipe Island. In addition, the Lipe bungalow owner has long-tailed boats for hire to visit local coral reefs. Find other travelers to help share the expense.
If hiring a boat to go snorkeling, make sure the boat driver uses the mooring buoy if one is available. Also, be careful to not step on coral or break off pieces. Snorkels and masks are available for hire at Tarutao, Adang and Lipe Island.
Ko Dong (Dong Island)
It’s the farest island of all. The remarkable thing in this island is range of rocks, which lie on each other in a beautiful but strange style. There’s place for both scuba and deep diving where you can enjoy the beautiful sight of under water world.
Contact Address
Tarutao National Park
Paknam Sub-district, Amphur Langu Satun Thailand 91110
Tel. 0 7478 3485, 0 7472 8027-8, 0 7472 9002-3 Fax 0 7471 2425
How to go?
By Bus
There’re 465 km. from Bangkok to Had Yai. From Had Yai, you can go to Pak Ba Ra ferry departure point by Had Y
i – Ra Ngoo taxi or take mini bus from La Ngoo to Pak Ba Ra. You can even take the coach or local bus from Had Yai to Pak Ba Ra.
